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Iedvesmotājs: Mr.Newton

Dresses for the Heat of Summer - 1956

Air conditioning was not mainstream in 1956.  Some public buildings offered it, but at home window units were expensive and uncommon.  Women tried to stay cool by wearing lightweight fabrics, although slips, bras and girdles were still de rigueur.  Today, summer dresses from 1956 that were made to beat the heat.

Pink and white checked cotton lawn is criss-crossed with insertion lace for a light airy effect.  Larry Aldrich.  Sold for $110 in 1956 (about $914 in today's dollar.)

Cotton voile in black with copper colored dots.  Oleg Cassini.  Sold for $70 in 1956 (about $582 in today's dollar.)

A sweet cotton poplin playsuit gets dressed up for town by wearing a co-ordinating floral skirt over it.  Both pieces by Pat Premo.  Sold for $40 in 1956 (about $332 in today's dollar.)

Semi-sheer cotton voile in a cool champagne color fashions a simple shirtwaist dress.  Vera Stewart.  Sold for $95 in 1956 (about $789 in today's dollar.)  Mr. John lace hat.

White pintucked cotton batiste with rows of insertion lace layered over pale yellow lining.  Harvey Berin.  Sold for $175 in 1956 (about $1454 in today's dollar.)

How do you dress to stay cool in summer?

Lanvin Pop up shop

Hi guys,

There's a small treasure cave at the French Riviera... The cute Lanvin pop up shop in St. Tropez.





(pictures via Vogue Italia)
Vintage look, expensive tags!

See you soon.
x

One Day Celebration Sale at Couture Allure!

We're Having a Party!
Couture Allure is celebrating the fact that we now have 3000 fans on Facebook!  We're having a party and you get the presents!  Today only, take 20% off your entire purchase at Couture Allure.  Use coupon code "facebook3000" at checkout and your discount will automatically be applied.  The discount is good on the entire site, even sale items!  Discount does not apply to shipping or previous purchases.  Sale ends at noon on Thursday, June 30.

Paris Frocks - 1930

A reader has requested more posts about garments from the 1930s and 40s.  Today, a look at daytime dresses and suits from Parisian designers in the spring of 1930.  You can see in these examples that the dropped waist of the 20s is moving back to the natural waistline of the 30s. Are you as much in love as I am with these?

Jean Patou blue and white tweed tissue wool suit with a linen and lace blouse.  Can you see the bracelet handle on the purse?
 
Elsa Schiaparelli wears a dress of her own design in black silk crepe backed satin.  The front skirt drape was new and "of the moment".

Two polka dotted silk crepe de chine daytime dresses by J. Suzanne Talbot.

Cecile Welly wool tweed suit accented with a black fur collar.  Puppy dog not included.

Lousieboulanger silk crepe de chine afternoon dress.

McQueen Resort 2012

A quick peep on the resort collection 2012 by Sarah Burton.







Simple and elegant.

See you soon.
x

Simple Black Top Six Ways - 1945

During the years of WWII, fabric restrictions limited the amount of fabric manufacturers could use in garments.  Designers adapted by making skirts slimmer and shorter and eliminating fussy details.  Women became more creative with their use of accessories.  Here, from the summer of 1945, 6 ways to wear a simple black top.

Left:  A dress with cutaway shoulders and high neck, black on top, chestnut brown on bottom.  Worn with a leather belt and multiple necklaces.
Right:  One shoulder dress, black on top, red on bottom.  Worn with a leather belt and multiple bangle bracelets.  Both dresses by Henry Rosenfeld.  Sold for $15 in 1945 (about $188 in today's dollar.)

A simple rayon crepe top is worn with a beige rayon shantung skirt that ties at the front.  Both pieces are by B.H. Wragge.  Set sold for $23 in 1945 (about $289 in today's dollar.)  The model wears a Lilly Dache snood in her hair.

The same B.H. Wragge top is paired with a long sarong skirt in black and white cotton batik by Mady Martell.  A sparkling brooch is pinned at the top of the sarong wrap.  Skirt sold for $95 in 1945 (about $1,193 in today's dollar.)

A black surplice jersey knit top worn with a rayon taffeta evening skirt in red, white and green plaid.  A gold metallic belt finishes the look.  Sold for $35 in 1945 (about $439 in today's dollar.)

A Minx Modes sundress looks like separates.  The top has wide shoulder straps and swirling embroidery.  The skirt is striped in yellow, black and gray.  Sold for $18 in 1945 (about $226 in today's dollar.)

DIY Bettie Page fringe/bangs


Hi guys,

I hope you all have been well enjoying the hot weather. Talking about the weather, Summer is the hardest time to keep your hair looking good, you guys know the drama... Summer = humidity, humidity = curls and kinks.

My biggest drama is my fringe! I have a huge 'cow lick' right at the front that makes my hair jump upwards madly. I shouldn't really have a fringe to be honest, is not the most suitable thing for my hair but I love having it and I couldn't not imagine myself without one anymore.
Along the years, I got to know my fringe very well and due so many disasters at the hairdressers I decided that I know best and so I cut my fringe myself! My hairdressers friends laugh at me because it takes me a few cuts to get it right but to be honest it's never right...lol
My fringe has a life of it's own, some days it's fine, others I wake up like Cameron Diaz in Something about Mary. So, I do my cut in stages, which may take me a couple of days.


You guys have commented a lot about my fringe and so that is how it got started, initially I used to wear it straight across and then a few years back, I came across the 'pin up' fringe. I tried it and got hooked on that hairstyle. (because I think it makes my face looks a bit slimmer and less like a chipmunk).
Nowadays quite a few celebrities have had a go on the Bettie Page style, making it more popular.


Burlesque queen Dita, has got it to perfection!

Nicole Scherzinger , has a pretty neat hairstyle going on.

Kate Perry, on the other hand has a fringe a bit like mine.

Beyonce, opted for the easy option, a wig.

Petra Nemcova, has a subtle one.

Sabrina Sato, (Brazilian actress) recently got hugely slated by the Brazilian press because of her new 'bangs'!

Are you feeling inspired?

So, the main and most crucial step for a pin up fringe is obviously to get the shape right. I try to get mine into a soft curve, more or less like a U shape. I visualize this shape and then I am ready for the trimmers. With my hair completely dry, I divide my hair into sections, the first layer is the bottom one, where I'll cut it shorter so when the hair falls on top, I won't get wispy poking out bits at the bottom, then I'll cut the second layer slightly longer than the first one and that's how it goes, you just have to be careful not to go very high on your temples. A tip is to start the cut from the base of the fringe and work upwards towards your temples.



To achieve this look, the easiest way for me is to cut my hair with a pair of mini clippers! It was scary at first but luckily I have never caught my eyebrows.




If you get the shape right, second thing to do is to use some hair straighteners. I decided that I need to make my life easier and tame my hair once for all but if you have no problems with your fringe you can just use them to curly it a bit more for that perfect pin up look.

And finally a good layer of hairspray should hold everything in place, just like in the old 50's.

This is my hairstyle tip for you but whilst browsing around I came across the GHD website which features loads of hairstyle tips, videos and trends. Worth having a look.

See you soon.
x


Thank You and 1949 Evening Gowns

Thank you a thousand times for the huge outpouring of support after my blog post last Monday.  As your comments and emails poured in during the day and throughout the rest of the week, it became crystal clear that my time spent here is worth every minute.  I appreciate every one of you and am so glad that you enjoy my work.  I want you to know that I approved and posted every comment that came in, including a couple of less-than-positive remarks from anonymous posters.  In response to a few suggestions, I have removed the word verification from comments and will be watermarking the photos in a less conspicuous way.  And now, back to work!

I wish I could tell you where Louise Dahl-Wolfe took these beautiful photos in 1949.  The background of the antique silvered mirror wall provides a perfect setting for three luscious party dresses that are perfect for summer.

Left:  Red and white polka dotted cotton organdy fashions a strapless pouf of a dress by Fred Perlberg.  Prarie points accent the edge of the bodice.  Sold for $29.95 in 1949 (about $284 in today's dollar.)
Right:  More organdy, this time in white printed with bouquets of roses.  The gown is by Ceil Chapman and has a ruched bodice with a shoulder wrap that extends from one side.  Sold for $70 in 1949 (about $665 in today's dollar.)

David Klein designed this dress to look like a flower.  White taffeta forms petals over netting in the skirt.  Sold for $35 in 1949 (about $332 in today's dollar.)

Make Do & Mend

Rationing enforced an era of obligatory minimalism when the Second World War broke out. From 1939-1946 rationed restricted consumerisms; and the extravagant silver screen star look of the 30s was now viewed as ostentatious, vulgar, and unpatriotic. Luxurious fabrics like silk and nylon were used for parachutes and mattresses became life jackets. Rayon, viscose, and blackout material were the fabrics left to use on clothes. Designers on both sides of the Atlantic were called up to do their part, and the British Board of Trade drafted a group of designers to create a complete civilian “utility” wardrobe to be mass produced. Restrictions banned wasteful cutting and excess trimmings, so hemlines became shorter and dresses became more fitted. Thus the ready-to-wear designer took over the couturiers, during the war. Women also rolled up their sleeves and went to work, while the men fought overseas. Women who worked the land wore corduroy trousers and dungarees, and bundled their hair into a colorful scarf.  Women’s daywear was quick and to the point, with sharp-shouldered jackets and knee length skirts. And as the war continued, women concocted a new mix and match blueprint to make the most of their wardrobes. Suits allowed for mixing and matching shirts and skirts. As, materials such as straw ran out, women improvised with scraps of dresses to make miniature doll-sized hats which were worn perched on the head. Gals also wore heavy shoes, often with wooden soles to save on leather. In fact Vogue patriotically focused on ‘Do it yourself’ fashion and ‘Make Do and Mend’, advising sewing different colored ribbons into pleats of skirts, and adorning black dresses with sequins and paisley pockets and turning maternity capes into reefer jackets. Women were essential in the war effort and joined the Navy WAVES, the Army WACs and WASPs, Army nurses, the Coast Guard SPARS, and the Marine Corps Womens Reserve
Seattle
wooden shoes
Brighton, UK
(images scanned from: Decades of Fashion: Getty, Dressing Up Vintage, Vintage Fashion. Life. http://www.womenofwwii.com/ )