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Weekend Eye Candy - Gilbert Adrian Suit

Just look at the geometric precision used in constructing this 1940s suit by Gilbert Adrian! A simple stripe fabric is cut and resewn at various angles. Each of the stripes is precisely matched in an intricate marvel of design. I am in love.

What time is now?

Hi guys,

A quick afternoon update, I have just come across the new Marc Jacobs watches for the winter collection. They should be arriving in the UK next week, set price to be £150.

Just totally fell in love with the Miss Marc collection. They are so much fun, plus she looks just like me!!!! Big mouth, sunglasses... and she even has a split on her fringe! I definitely must get one, it's almost like it has been specially personalised. Laughs!

-Click on the image to enlarge.


The silver one is also very cute!
Which one would you go for?

See you guys later.
x

Back to School Separates - 1955

If you were a teen or young 20-something in 1955, this is what you wanted for back-to-school, back-to-college, or for casual wear.

Jantzen separates were offered in lots of co-ordinating colors. You could mix-and-match their sweaters with pants, skirts, and Bermuda shorts. Prices ranged from $7.95 - $19.95 in 1955 ($65.00 to $164.00 in today's dollar).

More separates from Jantzen.
Orlon sweaters from various manufacturers were worn with pants and skirts.

Thermo-Jac "boy-inspired" khakis, plaid shirts, and plaid lined jackets. Pants sold for $5.98, shirt $4.98, and jacket $6.98 in 1955 (about $49.00, $41.00, and $57.00 in today's dollar).

Cotton long sleeved blouses by Laura Mae were so well priced, you had money to burn! All sold for $2.98 in 1955 (about $24.00 in today's dollar).

All photos from 1955 advertisements.

The Prints of Leonard Fashion

I recently listed this stunning vintage 70s panné velvet dress by Leonard Fashion on my website. While perusing my vintage magazine collection, ads for the company have been catching my eye ever since. The other day, I came across an article about the company in a 1973 magazine and I had to share a bit of it with you.

The textile firm of Jacques Leonard et Cie was founded in 1954. In 1958, the company decided to launch a fashion line and Daniel Tribouillard was made Chief Executive Director. Tribouillard invented a new printing process in 1960. He patented this technique which allowed for a knit fabric to be continuously printed, and that technique is still used today.

Each season, the team at Leonard reviews about 5000 designs which are presented by the artists and print designers. Of those, only about 200 make the cut for final review.

After carefully examining the designs for their ability to be engraved and their commercial viability, those designs are further reduced to about 100 per season. For every design, a photoengraver separates the various areas of the print, each of which will be engraved into a separate frame for the printing process.

Here, a printer uses a frame to hand silk screen the design onto silk jersey, the fabric most often used by Leonard. The fabric will be screened several times as each color is applied individually.

This woman is examining the final printed fabric for flaws. You'll notice there is no Leonard signature in this fabric. This is not uncommon in Leonard prints from the early 70s.

Leonard ad, 1971

After the fabric prints are complete, the garments are then imagined and designed, based upon the prints.

Leonard ad, 1972

In 1987, Tribouillard bought the company and became Chairman. He remained the head designer until the Fall of 2001. The Leonard Company is still alive and well today, with over 100 stores worldwide. Veronique LeRoy is the current head designer of the firm.

Leonard ad, 1973

Please note: Biographical information about Leonard Fashion is copyright of Couture Allure and may not be copied without permission.

Vintage Suits - 1949

I don't think you can find anything more unique and more sexy than a vintage suit from the late 1940s through the 1950s. Suits from this era are fitted to the body, exquisitely tailored, and they always have unique design details. They were made with great attention to fine construction. You'll usually find bound buttonholes, high quality fabrics, interfacings and linings, and wide seam allowances to allow for individual alterations.

Just look at the Paul Parnes suit from 1949 shown above. It closes with buckles instead of buttons, the white lapel and cuffs are probably removable for a different look, and the pockets and peplum are top-stitched. This suit sold for $125.00 in 1949 (about $1155.oo in today's dollar).

The fact is, a suit from the 1940s or 50s will always be of higher quality than anything you can buy today, unless you're shopping couture. That makes a vintage suit a fabulous bargain as well.

The suit above, by Philip Mangone for Bonwit Teller has bands of ruching at the lapels, cuffs, and at the hem edges of the jacket and skirt. Mangone was one of the premier suit makers at the time, and his suits are highly sought after today.

In the 1940s and 50s, most women had at least one suit in their closet to wear to meetings, to dinner, to go shopping in the city, for travel, or to wear to appointments with professionals such as doctors, attorneys, or teachers. Because suits were so well made, a woman could expect one to last for years.

This suit by Zuckerman and Kraus has three rows of buttons at the front. It's the center row of buttons that is used to close the suit. The rounded pocket edges mimic the hem of the jacket.

One suit to last for years? Yes, that was the expectation and the norm. A bride would usually purchase a good suit as part of her trousseau. She would wear it as her going-away outfit, and then continue to wear it for years to come. Women changed the look by changing their accessories, just as we do today, but they had the added options of hats and gloves in addition to handbags, jewelry, scarves, and coats.

Another beauty by Philip Mangone. Here the plaid lapels stand out against black wool. The pockets are decorated with plaid cording and the suit came with a matching plaid coat. The set sold for $395.00 in 1949 (about $3646.00 in today's dollar).

Why not try a vintage suit on for style? I know you'll be glad you did! We've got a great selection for you at Couture Allure.

This Cymonette Original suit was available in black, navy, or pale gray wool. Lines of trapunto accent the shoulders and the pocket edges have the same shape. Sold for $60.00 in 1949 (about $554.00 in today's dollar).


Photo #1 by Harold Halma, #2 by Radkai. All 5 photos are from advertisements in a 1949 magazine.

LAST CHANCE Sale at Couture Allure

We've got loads of new vintage goodies coming to you for fall, but we have to make some room for it! All this week, we'll be marking some great vintage items down to $50.00 each during our LAST CHANCE Sale! You can't afford to miss these deals! Come on.....where else are you going to find a vintage Dior for $50????? Check back often for fabulous bargains all week! Simply type "Last Chance" into the search box at Couture Allure and find your dream deal!

DAILYINSPIRATION221

Iedvesmotājs : SSS & Style Clicker


Jonathan Logan Dresses - 1955

I've talked about my love of Jonathan Logan dresses in the past. While perusing an August issue of a 1955 fashion magazine geared toward younger women, I found page after page of ads for Jonathan Logan dresses. Each ad was paired with a regional department store, like Goldsmiths, Best Apparel, and Woodward & Lothrop, and included a coupon for ordering the dress. That way, the manufacturer and the department store shared the cost of the ad, and Jonathan Logan dresses got a lot of notice. Smart man, that David Schwartz.

The "Starlight" sleeveless dress came with a matching bolero jacket in blue, pink, or purple faille. Sold for $19.95 in 1955 (about $164 in today's dollar).

Soft corduroy full skirted dress came with a removable dickey at the neckline so the dress could go from day to date with ease. Sold for $14.95 in 1955 (about $123 in today's dollar).

Velveteen dreams in full skirted or slim silhouettes. Full skirt dress came in blue, purple, or black. Slim dress came in purple, red, or black. Sold for $22.95 and $14.95 in 1955 (about $189 and $123 in today's dollar).

Mix-and-match separates that were dyed to match. Wool flannel skirts were matched with a wool jersey top or a cotton puff sleeved blouse. All 4 pieces came in blue, red, or green. Prices ranged from $3.98 to $8.98 in 1955 (about $33 to $74 in today's dollar).

Black wool flannel fashions a polo collar dress with elastic waist or a sleeveless dress that could be worn with a blouse for daytime. Sold for $17.98 and $19.98 in 1955 (about $148 and $164 in today's dollar).

Nubby wool tweed full skirted dress is accented with soft angora at the collar and cuffs. Available in lilac, royal, or gray. Sold for $25.00 in 1955 (about $205 in today's dollar).

Wool check slim cut dress came with a matching boxy jacket in brown, gray, or turquoise. Set sold for $25.00 in 1955 (about $205 in today's dollar).

Mix-and match-separates in corduroy with a black wool jersey blouse. The separate pieces included a full skirt, slim skirt, boxy jacket, and pants. Prices ranged from $5.98 to $8.98 in 1955 (about $50 to $74 in today's dollar).

Don't you love Jonathan Logan too?

All photos from advertisements in a 1955 magazine.

Iris Van Herpen preview collection.

Hi guys,

Today am posting some beautiful pictures from Iris Van Herpen latest collection. These pictures are just a teaser, a preview of her new collection called 'Crystallization'. This display was part of Amsterdam International Fashion Week. The full collection will be showcased during London Fashion Week in September!

Inspired by water turned into crystal, Iris still strongly working with leather, this time around also collaborating with shoe company United Nude, designing the shoes for her collection. It also amazes and intrigued me the how real the 'crystallized' water looks! It must be made of some kind of perspex and the effect is absolutely stunning.



- Click on the images to enlarge:










I can't wait until Fashion Week...

See you soon.
x

Cat Deeley Wears Vintage

I'm a huge fan of the TV show So You Think You Can Dance on Fox. One of the best parts of the show is watching what host Cat Deeley will wear each week. The 5'9" tall British born gal is a former model with a great sense of style. She often wears vintage dresses on the show, which she mixes with modern accessories and shoes to great effect. She has an affinity for styles from the 60s and 80s, and I can tell that she has many of the dresses shortened before wearing them. We can only hope that her tailor is leaving all of the original length intact rather than cutting the hems off!

Cat wears a vintage 60s yellow dress with beaded collar and sleeves and a 60s sequin knit dress, both in season 7.

Here, a 60s beaded fringe cocktail dress from season 7 and a 60s pink brocade dress with beaded neckline in season 6.

Here, an 80s strapless gold lamé dress and an 80s green beaded dress, both from season 6.

Lastly, an 80s sequined dress and a 60s blue dress with Cleopatra collar, both from season 6. I loved that blue dress. Her stylist did her hair long and straight that night, and the look really worked!

What will Cat wear this week?

All photos courtesy of InStyle.com.