Vintage Coats - 1970s

Today, I continue our look at coats through the decades with the 1970s. As we saw last week, in the late 1960s, maxi coats and capes were hugely popular. These trends continue into the early 70s, but if there is one coat that defines the 1970s, it is the wrap coat.

1975

1972

No matter if they were made of wool, cashmere, tweed, or leather. No matter whether they had big fur collars or not, a coat that was belted with it's own sash was the look.

1974

As more casual clothing started to become popular, leather coats and denim jackets are seen more and more.

1973

The traditional poplin trench coat, a menswear style popular for decades, is translated for women.

1972

As pants become a mainstay of a woman's wardrobe, shorter jackets become stylish as an alternative to a longer coat.

1973

Knit fabrics are everywhere in the early 70s, and sweater coats, often with fur fronts or fur trim, are very popular. Long thickly knit cardigans that are belted at the waist are often worn as coats too.

By the late 1970s, belted styles are gone, and a straighter silhouette reigns. We start to see larger shoulder pads emerge, a harbinger of the 1980s.

Quilted, snap front coats are popular in the late 1970s. These are both reversible from one color to another.

By 1979, shoulders are dropping, big shoulder pads are in, and the oversized look emerges. We'll see more of this next week, with a look at coats in the 1980s.

DAILYINSPIRATION161

Iedvesmotājs : Hoy Fashion & PIMPUMPAM

Game Day Fashion - 1936

In 1936, women wore skirts and dresses to football games. I doubt football season lasted into February back then, but Fall can get pretty darned chilly for some of us. Featured here are some game day fashions that are warm and attractive at the same time. Let them inspire you to stand out at your next game! Shown above, a cashmere jersey dress in brilliant green with football shaped buttons down the front.

A tangerine wool suit is worn with a yellow turtleneck sweater and a wolf fur stole. Pin a huge spider mum to your lapel and don't forget your compact!
Sally Milgrim offered a wool boucle swagger coat lined in the same green angora/wool that fashions the dress. The coat's collar can be buttoned up tight around the neck. Take a wool blanket to keep those stockinged legs warm!

How about a burgundy herringbone wool suit with notched lapels and flap pockets worn over a blue wool knit blouse. A blue hat and gloves complete the look.

On the right - The green suede jacket sports wool tweed lapels that match the skirt.
On the left - Green plaid wool homespun fashions a "chest warmer" gilet with matching skirt. The same plaid lines the brown coat. Shown below is another view of the gilet or dickey, which is worn over a sweater and closes at the back of the neck and back of the waist. Clever!

Things you didn't know about me...

I love the 1920's and Art Deco Fashion.

I collect fabrics!

Hello,



Today's post is a small collection of some of my 1920's fabrics and pieces.



I'm a hoarder, a collector, as I would call myself. I love old treasures from the past. I collect from different eras but today I' ll share with you some of my 1920's shawls, fabrics and other bits.



I took the opportunity to shoot some items together with this great book called 'Art Deco Fashion', which is so inspirational!

It has pictures from Paul Poiret, Lavin, Vionnet and Chanel to name a few, there is also some hair and make up pictures and some essential information about the 20's fashion in general.





Last week on the Portobello Market, I found this amazing hand stitched glass embroidery piece, on the right hand side, for £2! Which I'll transform into a gorgeous bib necklace :)





I buy these items because they are just beautiful to look at. The intention is to transform them into something in the future...



Falling to pieces... an amazing black glass beaded piece with an exquisite collar made of diamante and clear glass beads. Behind it, a gorgeous two toned pink sequined flapper dress with leaves detail on it.





It's beautiful, it's romantic, it's totally couture!



My most treasured possession is this green flapper dress... Attention must be paid on the detailing of the pearls, sequins, glass beads and diamante, all hand stitched. It's a real work of art.



Another passion of mine are those mini flapper handbags. The one on the right hand side is one of a kind, made of a fine net with diamantes attached on it and a beautiful clasp. It's one of my recent acquisitions and it's so glam!







I am also hooked on shawls... I have three, all original from the 1920's and in good condition. My tip, is to hang them over the furniture for a boudoir shabby chic look which I totally adore.



The 1920's was all about detail and metallic fabrics. I love them and appreciate how beautiful they are. I have just managed to collect a few pieces, as they are so hard to find and expensive buy.

The dress on the picture is a classic example of how a classic cut goes a long way, with an avant-garde metallic patchwork detail on, it was made in 1925 and yet is so up to date.





Pandora's Box!

I could easily have been born as a flapper... as I would love to dress myself with so opulent and amazing fabrics!



In future, I'll show some of my huge victorian lace and beading collection... Maybe you can help me, giving me ideas of what do do with it.



See you soon.

x

Lauren Hutton Wears Calvin Klein - 1973

Two of fashion's rising young stars in 1973 are combined in this photo by Richard Avedon. Lauren Hutton began modeling in the 1960s. The year after this photo was taken, Hutton would become the first million dollar supermodel by landing an unprecedented exclusive modeling contract with a cosmetics company. Revlon made Hutton it's face for the Ultima II line.

Hutton wears a sweater coat with matching skirt by Calvin Klein. Klein started his own coat company in 1968 after several years of designing for other labels. By 1970, he expanded into sportswear and in '73, he got his first of three consecutive Coty awards.

The sweater coat and skirt are of salt and pepper acrylic knit trimmed in silver fox fur. Hutton wears the set with a dark blouse, skinny belt and long gold chains. Love the face veil on the hat.

DAILYINSPIRATION160

Iedvesmotājs : Altamira

Fridays @ Portobello

Hello everyone, sorry for the lack of posts lately, I have been a busy bee... buzzing around with loads of ideas and posts to come.

As usual some cool people around...
- Click on the picture to enlarge.


Louise, on Portobello Market.
I love this look, the dress has a gorgeous print and I particularly adore the way she is wearing her scarf as a charming head band. A modern flapper, almost .


Maiken, on Portobello Road.
With a tiny and cute bump, she looks gracious in a matching red dress and beret.


Shan, near Portobello Road.
A cool look combining many interesting layers, I looove the studded cardigan worn over everything else.


Jennifer, on Portobello Market.
Another cute summer dress teamed up with some very cool boots. The boots are totally adorable with some lovely embroidering on them. Unique.


Oxanna, on Portobello Road.
I love the colour of this dress, which still gives us a touch of summer. Add it a pinch of winter with a fur gilet and top it off with a Chloe bag. Great ingredients for Autumn.

See you soon! I promise...
xoxoxo

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Dresses, Suits and Coats

New this week at Couture Allure are vintage dresses, suits, and coats. Check our What's New section often, as we add new items 2-3 times a week!

Lilli Ann does it again with this vintage mid to late 1960’s suit fashioned from black wool knit. The suit consists of a dress and matching jacket, both trimmed with genuine white mink fur.

I love the cut out style of this vintage 60s Mod era cocktail dress in black velvet with rhinestones.

Ethereal silk chiffon in an oversize print of lilies immediately identifies this dress as Hanae Mori. This vintage late 1970s evening gown bears the Hanae Mori couture label and was sold by Bergdorf Goodman.

You’re sure to make a beautiful statement when you walk down the aisle in this 1950’s ballerina length wedding dress. Fashioned of ecru lace layered over nude color taffeta, the effect is very princess-like.

This incredible vintage late 1950’s cocktail coat is made from authentic Uchikake kimono silk brocade, which is the fabric used for formal bridal kimonos. The original owner of this coat probably traveled to the Orient in the 1950s and purchased the kimono silk, then had it made into a coat.

There’s no better combination than red with spotted fur and this early 1960s suit has it in spades! Designed by fine suit maker Boykoff for Lord & Taylor, this suit is fashioned from fire engine red wool boucle and is adorned with spotted genuine fur that has been stenciled to imitate ocelot.

OUTTAKES FROM MEN EVIDENCE EDITORIAL

OCTOBER ISSUE "L'HOMME DE LA SITUATION" featuring RACHELE SHANK @ Model International & MAXWELL DAVIS @ Wilhelmina Models

Weekend Eye Candy - Victorian Handbag

Incredible and intricate embossed leather handbag dates to 1880-1900 and is part of the collection of the Hendrikje Museum of Bags and Purses in Amsterdam.

In other news, I am thrilled to announce that the Couture Allure Vintage Fashion Blog has been named one of the Top 10 Vintage Clothing Blogs by Blogs.com. Thank you!

Emeric Partos, Furrier Extraordinaire

A big thank you to all of you who took the time to respond to my question about vintage fur yesterday. The overwhelming response was a positive one, so I will feature pictures of vintage furs here on the blog in the future.

Sometimes, the serendipity of finding images and doing research for this blog takes me to unexpected places. That happened today when I came across this image from 1964 of a little outfit designed by Emeric Partos. The outfit consists of a blouse and britches in real jaguar fur with a long red velveteen "fling" to throw over it. Pretty outrageous, right? That led me to find out more about Mr. Partos. He was quite a fascinating man.

Please note: Biographical information about Emeric Partos is copyright of Couture Allure and may not be copied without permission.

Emeric Partos was born in Hungary and moved to Paris in 1939. During WWII, he served in the French army and later became an operative in the underground, where he met couturier Alex Maguy. Partos joined Maguy's house as a coat designer, then joined the House of Dior as Dior's assistant in 1947. It is said that Partos was the one who came up with the idea of using crinoline petticoats to give volume to the yards of fabric in Dior's New Look skirts.

In 1950, Partos was invited to join the house of Maximilian Furs in New York, first as a guest designer, and then permanently. He terminated his contract with Dior and moved to New York.

Jasmine white mink cropped jacket by Partos,
made to order at Bergdorf Goodman, 1955

In 1955, Bergdorf Goodman lured Partos away by offering him free reign as the designer in their custom fur salon. It was here that the name Emeric Partos became synonymous with the finest, most expensive, and most innovative furs in the world.

Alaskan seal slim coat with side buttons by Partos,
made to order at Bergdorf Goodman, 1955

In 1957, Partos was awarded a Coty Award for his fur designs.

Empress Chincilla fur bolero jacket by Partos,
made to order at Bergdorf Goodman, 1958

Emba Autumn Haze mink coat by Partos,
made to order at Bergdorf Goodman, 1960

A showing at the fur salon on the second floor of Bergdorf Goodman was always attended by a Who's Who of high society. Customers such as Babe Paley, Gloria Vanderbilt, and Barbra Streisand could be found perched on little gold chairs watching a very theatrical show featuring Mr. Partos' latest creations with the finest pelts in the world. Not only did he design the furs, but he also designed the clothes and accessories that went with them.

Zebra fur dress by Partos from the late 1960s,
from the collection of the Met Costume Institute

Emeric Partos is credited with such innovations in the fur industry as knitting with strips of fur, dying fur, and using pelts from unusual animals like yak.

In 1974, Partos invented the fur "cover-up", essentially a separate coat made of poplin, gabardine, or silk that was meant to be worn over the fur coat to protect it from rain, sleet, and snow. It evolved into a garment that women wore over their fur coat so as not to look too ostentatious.

Emeric Partos died on December 2, 1975 at the age of 70. He had been with Bergdorf for 20 years.

In 1965, Barbra Streisand filmed a portion of her television special, "My Name is Barbra" in Bergdorf Goodman. The fashion show sequence features Streisand singing "Second Hand Rose" and other songs while modeling several fur outfits by Emeric Partos. Here is the clip of that performance from the show. You may want to skip through the first 3 minutes until you get to the fashion portion. You'll see Barbra wearing a long Somali leopard coat over a black leather dress, a pair of white mink knickers with a black sweater, a velvet print suit lined in Canadian wild mink, and a white broadtail lamb riding habit. The second fur is unidentified, but it looks like either fox or sable to me. All the hats were designed by Bergdorf's custom milliner, Halson (yes, that Halston). Barbra purchased most of the fur outfits after filming the show. Enjoy!